When we arrived at our hotel yesterday we were presented a deal that included transfer to the Puno docks, the boat ride to the islands, transfer back and then an overnight bus to Cuzco tonight, all for a little more than $25 a person. What a deal, right? Well, the service was great, so I can't complain. There was just one minor detail that nearly broke my heart and unfortunately it was not so minor. The Uros people survive solely on tourism and people buying their artisan crafts. We arrived to the part of
the lake with the islas and all of the colorfully dressed women were waving their arms trying to convince the boat drivers to steer over to their island. After passing a multitude of these we finally pulled over to one with a name I don't quite remember. We were greeted in their native language Aymará and were taught how to respond ("waliki") so we all followed suit. The women were running around putting down blankets on big reed benches for us and before long we were shown a demonstration of just how these fascinating islands were created. I 
think that was the most interesting part simply because we were actually on the island, feeling the squishing of the reeds beneath our feet and learning just how they were, and still are being put together. Apparently each year they have to add a new, fresh layer of reeds to the top to keep from going under. Interesting, 'eh?After we were shown the demonstration they split us up and took us each into their reed-houses and dressed us just like them. It was sad to realize that they only think we come there to gawk at their differences and buy their crafts. After we were dressed like American Girl dolls, the 19-year-old woman who showed us her room hurried us to
her stand where she had all of her crafts set up. She was literally begging us to buy things and although it was hard to refuse I just couldn't come to do it. Laura and I left the island in their version of a Mercedes-Benz (or rather, a big boat made out of reeds and plastic bottles) without any reed souvenirs, just the memories of the Uros people and their handicrafts.I really didn't think it would get much more upsetting than that until we went to Isla Taquile which was about a 2 hour 40 minute boat ride away. I had read about this in Lonely Planet (like everything else) and it seemed like a cool getaway, or at least a not AS touristy part of town, or shall I say, lake. Sadly, we were mislead and misinformed. Our tour arrived to the island and after huffing and puffing up an enormous hill we were bombarded with little niñas trying to sell us bracelets for 1 sol. That is extremely cheap but just the way in which it was all happening really saddened me. There was also a beautiful lookout point over the lake that draws many a tourist for an incredible photo and just as a couple or group of people would pose, the children would flock. Six or seven girls and boys would run and jump in the picture and then hound the tourist for some monedas, or coins, for having been photographed. After watching this about seven or eight times I finally just had to walk to the other side of the plaza.
In the end I decided to support their cause and buy one of their bracelets after all, even though I would much rather take them home with me and show them the opportunities they will never know! There is only one school on the island and who knows what they are taught and who exactly are their teachers, let alone how many of them actually go to school. I did not see many of the parents, probably due to the fact they were at home making the things for their children to peddle. After looking back on this, the day was definitely just another cultural experience for me because I have never been exposed to a community 99% dependent on a tourist's dollar.We were taken through a couple of fields with sheep bahhhing at us all the way, served a delicious lunch, and then made our way back down the island on the other side for
the 3 hour boat ride back. On the way back to the hotel a street market caught all four of our eyes and we decided to spend a little bit of time over there. We walked through aisles of fruits, grains, potatoes, beauty products and toiletries and even saw some animal heads with big toothy grins still smiling at all of the passersby! Being the small town girls we are we all tried to take pictures of these things and for the first time were rejected. As soon as we pulled out our cameras all of the women hid their faces and one even threw some seeds at Maud trying to shoo us away. It was pretty interesting so we decided to just put the cameras away, continue our stroll through the happening market and then make our way back to a bread shop we discovered last night for some delicious corn bread and chocolates. 
Tonight we leave on a 9 hour bus to Cuzco and in the morning I will be reunited with my wonderful friend and roommate, Kate! I am so excited because that means two things for me: 1) I will be seeing Kate's smiling face in less than 12 hours and 2) I am one day closer to the Inca Trail! Both Laura and I have been huffing and puffing up each and every step but that is not going to deter us from having an unforgettable experience in Machu Picchu.
All in all Puno was good to us for the few short hours we were here and we are looking forward to the next step in our adventure!
Besitos,
Kelsey Marie
No comments:
Post a Comment